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Part 2
Amazing Diversity
Following the Mekong a few kilometers south of town, the road peters out into a quiet unpaved path which passes through small fishing villages and along a beautiful wide stretch of river. Fisherman in small long tail boats practice traditional subsistence fishing employing methods that remain unchanged after centuries. Further down, numerous sandy islands dot the river and some channels become so shallow that they can be walked across. Rock barriers create numerous deep pools in this area, some hundreds of feet deep which serve as a sanctuary for some of the river's most amazing animal life. The Mekong River Dolphin, one of the most endangered mammals in the world, will be seen here. Eight feet (2.75 m) in length, these elegant creatures are easily spotted as the surface for air. When on the water, it is possible to hear the sound of their blowholes as they surface. This area is also home to a variety of other unique species, including the Mekong Giant Catfish, giant soft shell turtles and fish species significantly larger than the dolphins. Shortly after the largest dolphin pool in this area, the dirt path ends at a small creek with nothing but thick forest beyond. The only way to continue along the river is by boat, and even that is difficult as the river descends in a tricky tangle of intertwining channels, rocky rapids and eddies. Beyond this point, the river travels through some of the remotest regions of Cambodia. Thousands of jungle-clad islands, some tiny, some gigantic dot the next 100 or so kilometers. Cambodia's largest island, the 45-kilometer long Koh Rougniv, may be the next sign of civilization, although it is a civilization without electricity or cars. Most of the island consists of forest, but a few sparsely populated villages connected by sandy paths have built up a community based on subsistence farming and fishing. After Koh Rougniv, the river emerges at the ruins of the ancient city of Sambor and the nearby 16th century 100 Pillar Pagoda, a local Buddhist pilgrimage site. From there, a quiet shady road follows the river to Kratie. Ox carts and ponies transport hay and other goods between the farms and villages along the route. Roadside stall sell a local specialty consisting of spiced fish wrapped in banana leaves. Near Kratie, the dolphin pools of Kampi are a popular, if not raucous spot, for locals and tourists to picnic and visit the dolphins. Kratie, a pretty town of French-colonial architecture, is set up with a lively riverside night market where everyone in town seems to gather for sunset over the Mekong. Cold beer, fruit shakes, interesting snacks, a cool breeze and a great view can be had until late-night. Continue to Part 3.
Just one channel of the river
The many tiny islands of the Mekong River
A view from the Kratie night market
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